Texas Home Vegetable Gardening Guide free pdf ebook was written by on February 24, 2009 consist of 11 page(s). The pdf file is provided by aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu and available on pdfpedia since January 17, 2012.
e-502 2/09 *assistant professor and extension horticulturist, the texas a&m system. joseph masabni* h ome gardening continues to grow in popularity....
E-502
2/09
Joseph Masabni*
H
ome gardening continues to grow in popularity. One of every
three families does some type of home gardening, according to
conservative estimates, with most gardens located in urban areas.
Texas gardeners can produce tasty, nutritious vegetables year-round. To be
a successful gardener you will need to follow a few basic rules and make
practical decisions.
Garden Site
Although many urban gardeners have little choice, selecting a garden
site is extremely important. The ideal garden area gets full or nearly full
sunlight and has deep, well-drained, fertile soil. The garden should be near
a water outlet but not close to competing shrubs or trees. However, if you
modify certain cultural practices and select the right crops, almost any site
can become a highly productive garden.
Crop Selection
One of the first things you must do is decide what vegetables to grow.
Table 1 lists crops suitable for small and large gardens. You will want to
grow vegetables that return a good portion of nutritious food for the time
and space they require. Vine crops such as watermelons, cantaloupes,
winter squash and cucumbers need large amounts of space, but if you plant
them near a fence or trellis you may need less space for vine crops. Plant
the vegetables your family will enjoy most. Resist the urge to plant more
of any particular vegetable than you need unless you plan to preserve the
surplus.
*Assistant Professor and Extension Horticulturist, The Texas A&M System.
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Table 1. Home garden vegetables.
Small gardens
Beets
Broccoli
Bush squash
Cabbage
Carrot
Eggplant
English pea
Garlic
Green bean
Lettuce
Onion
Parsley
Pepper
Radish
Spinach
Tomato
Large gardens
Cantaloupe
Cauliflower
Collard
Cucumber
Mustard
Okra
Potato
Pumpkin
Southern pea
Sweet corn
Sweet potato
Watermelon
If your garden does not receive full or nearly
full sunlight, try growing leafy crops such as leaf
lettuce, mustard and parsley. Table 2 lists vege-
tables that do well in full sunlight and those that
tolerate partial shade.
Table 2. Light requirements of common vegetables.
Require bright sunlight
Bean
Broccoli
Cantaloupe
Cauliflower
Cucumber
Tolerate partial shade
Beet
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Carrot
Collard
Kale
Lettuce
Mustard
Parsley
Radish
Spinach
Turnip
Eggplant
Okra
Onion
Pea
Pepper
Potato
Pumpkin
Squash
Tomato
Watermelon
It is important to select the right variety of
each vegetable. If you plant the wrong variety
for your area you may not get a satisfactory yield
no matter how much care you give the plants.
Your county Extension agent can provide a list
of varieties that are well adapted to your area of
Texas. If you try new varieties and hybrids, limit
the size of the plantings.
Garden Plan
A gardener needs a plan just as an architect
does. Careful planning lessens gardening work
and increases the return on your labor.
Table 3 shows the relative maturity rates of
various vegetable crops. Long-term crops require
a long growing period. Plant them where they
won’t interfere with the care and harvesting of
short-term crops. Plant tall-growing crops (okra,
staked tomatoes, pole beans, sweet corn) on the
north side of the garden where they will not
shade or interfere with the growth of low-grow-
ing crops such as radishes, leaf lettuce, onions
and bush beans. Group crops according to their
rate of maturity so a new crop can be planted
to take the place of another as soon as it is
removed. When you plant a new crop, it should
be totally unrelated to the crop it is replacing.
This is called crop rotation. Crop rotation helps
prevent the buildup of diseases and insects. For
example, follow early beans with beets, squash
or bell peppers.
Table 3. Maturity rates of common vegetables.
Quick (30 to 60 days)
Beets
Bush bean
Leaf lettuce
Moderate (60 to 80 days)
Broccoli
Chinese cabbage
Carrot
Cucumber
Slow (80 days or more)
Brussels sprouts
Bulb onion
Cabbage
Cantaloupe
Cauliflower
Eggplant
Garlic
Irish potato
Pumpkin
Sweet potato
Tomato
Watermelon
Green onion
Kohlrabi
Lima bean
Okra
Parsley
Pepper
Tomato
Mustard
Radish
Spinach
Summer squash
Turnip
Turnip green
2
Soil Preparation
Many garden sites do not have the deep, well-
drained, fertile soil that is ideal for growing vegeta-
bles. If yours is one of them, you will need to alter
the soil to provide good drainage and aeration. If
the soil is heavy clay, adding organic matter, sand
or gypsum will improve it. Organic matter also
improves sandy soils.
To improve clay soils, apply 1 to 2 inches of
good sand and 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to
the soil surface in late winter or early spring; then
turn it under to mix it thoroughly with the soil. It
may take several years to improve the soil’s physi-
cal condition and you’ll want to add more organic
matter (in the form of composted materials, peanut
hulls, rice hulls, grass clippings, etc.) periodically.
Turn the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches—the
deeper the better—each time you add organic mat-
ter. Add gypsum at the rate of 6 to 8 pounds per
100 square feet where the soil is heavy clay.
When you add organic matter or sand to the
garden site, be careful not to introduce soil pests
such as nematodes. Contact your county Extension
agent to find out how you can have your soil tested
for nematodes by the Texas AgriLife Extension Soil
Testing Laboratory.
Never work wet garden soil. To determine if the
soil is dry enough for working, squeeze together a
small handful of soil. If it sticks together in a ball
and does not readily crumble under slight pressure
by your thumb and finger, it is too wet for working.
Seeds germinate better in well-prepared soil
than in coarse, lumpy soil. Thorough soil prepa-
ration makes planting and caring for your crops
much easier. It is possible, however, to overdo the
preparation of some soils. An ideal soil for planting
is granular, not powdery fine.
Amarillo
•
•
Lubbock
•
Dallas
•
El Paso
•
Waco
•
Bryan
•
Austin
San Antonio
•
College Station
Houston
•
Apr 15
Mar 31
Mar 16
Mar 1
Feb 14
Jan 30
No freeze
Corpus Christi
•
Laredo
•
•
Kingsville
•
McAllen
Harlingen
Figure 1. Average date of last spring frost.
Amarillo
•
•
Lubbock
•
Dallas
•
El Paso
•
Waco
•
Bryan
•
Austin
San Antonio
•
College Station
Houston
•
Nov 1
Nov 16
Dec 1
Dec 16
No freeze
Corpus Christi
•
Laredo
•
•
Kingsville
•
McAllen
Harlingen
Figure 2. Average date of first fall frost.
Fertilization
Proper fertilization is another important key
to successful vegetable gardening. The amount
of fertilizer needed depends upon the soil type
and the crops you are growing. Texas soils vary
from deep sands to fertile, well-drained soils to
heavy, dark clays underlaid by layers of caliche
rock or hardpan. Crops grown on sandy soils
usually respond to liberal amounts of potassium,
3
whereas crops grown on clay soils do not.
Heavy clay soils can be fertilized much more
heavily at planting than can sandy soils. Heavy
clay soils and those with lots of organic matter can
safely absorb and store fertilizer at three to four
times the rate of sandy soils. Thin, sandy soils,
which need fertilizer the most, unfortunately
cannot be fed as heavily without burning plants.
The solution is to feed poor, thin soils more often
in lighter doses. For accurate recommendations
regarding fertilizer rates, contact your county
Extension agent and request a soil test kit.
In general, if your garden is located on deep,
sandy soil, apply a complete preplant fertilizer
such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12 at the rate of 1 to 2
pounds per 100 square feet. If your soil has a
high percentage of clay, a fertilizer such as
10-20-10 or 12-24-12 applied at 1 to 2 pounds
per 100 square feet should be suitable.
Make the preplant fertilizer application a
few days before planting. Spade the garden plot,
spread the fertilizer by hand or with a fertil-
izer distributor, and then work the soil well to
properly mix the fertilizer with the soil. After
the fertilizer is well mixed with the soil, bed the
garden in preparation for planting.
On alkaline soils, apply 1-20-0 (superphos-
phate) directly beneath the intended seed row or
plant row before planting. Apply the superphos-
phate at a rate of 1 to 1½ pounds per 100 linear
feet of row. Make sure the nitrogen material will
be 2 to 4 inches below the seed or transplant
roots so it won’t harm them. Later in the season
you can apply additional nitrogen as a furrow
or sidedress application. For most soils, 2 to 3
pounds of 21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate) per 100
linear feet of row, applied in the furrow and wa-
tered in, is adequate. For crops such as tomatoes,
peppers and squash, make this application at
first fruit set. Sidedress leafy crops such as cab-
bage and lettuce when they develop several sets
of character leaves.
Planting
Plant your garden as early as possible in the
spring and fall so the vegetables will grow and
mature during ideal conditions. Using transplants
rather than seeds, when possible, allows crops to
mature earlier and extends the productive period
of many vegetable crops. Be careful not to plant
transplants too deep or too shallow, especially if
plants are in containers such as peat pots. Planting
too deep often causes developed roots to abort.
Planting too shallow may cause roots to dry out.
Some crops can be removed from containers
for planting, while others are best transplanted in
containers, as indicated in Table 4. When trans-
planting plants such as tomatoes or peppers, use
a starter solution. Purchase starter solution at a
nursery or make your own by mixing 2 to 3 cups
of fertilizer (such as 10-20-10) in 5 gallons of wa-
ter. Use the lower rate on light, sandy soils. Pour
1 to 2 pints of starter solution (depending on plant
size) into each transplant hole before planting.
This keeps the plants from drying out and gives
the young, growing plants the nutrients they need.
When planting seeds, a general rule of thumb
is to cover the seed two to three times as deep
Table 4. Ease of transplanting.
Easily transplanted
Beet
Broccoli
Cabbage
Require care
Carrot
Celery
Bean
Cantaloupe
Sweet corn
Eggplant
Okra
Cucumber
Pea
Squash
Pepper
Spinach
Turnip
Watermelon
Cauliflower
Chard
Lettuce
Onion
Tomato
Very difficult without using containers
4
as its width. This is especially true for big seeds
such as green bean, sweet corn, cucumber, can-
taloupe and watermelon. Smaller seeds such as
carrot, lettuce or onion can be planted about ¼ to
½ inch deep. Plant seeds fairly thickly; once they
have sprouted you can thin plants to an optimum
stand. After planting seeds, do not let the soil
become so dry that it develops a crust, but do not
overwater either. Table 5 indicates the average
number of days from planting to emergence.
Table 5. Days from planting to emergence under good
growing conditions.
Bean
Beet
Broccoli
Cabbage
Carrot
Corn
5-10
7-10
5-10
5-10
12-18
5-8
Cucumber 6-10
Eggplant
Lettuce
Okra
Onion
Pea
Parsley
6-10
6-8
7-10
7-10
6-10
15-21
Pepper
Radish
Spinach
Squash
Tomato
Turnip
9-14
3-6
7-12
4-6
6-12
4-8
Cauliflower 5-10
Watermelon 6-8
Watering
Apply enough water to wet the soil to a
depth of at least 6 inches. For best production,
most gardens require about 1 inch of rain or
irrigation per week during the growing season.
Light, sandy soils usually need to be watered
more often than heavier, dark soils. If you use
sprinklers, water in the morning so plant foliage
has time to dry before night. This helps prevent
foliage diseases, since humidity and cool temper-
atures encourage disease development on most
vegetable crops.
A drip irrigation system is best because it keeps
water off plant foliage and uses water most efficient-
ly. Drip irrigation is ideal for use with mulches.
Weed Control
A long-handled hoe is the best tool for con-
trolling undesirable plants in vegetable gardens.
Chemical weed control usually is undesirable
and unsatisfactory because of the selective nature
of weed control chemicals. The wide variety of
vegetable crops normally planted in a small area
prohibits the use of such chemicals. Cultivate and
hoe shallowly to avoid injuring vegetable roots
near the soil surface. Control weeds when they
are small seedlings to prevent them from seeding
and re-inoculating the garden area. Mulching is
also an effective means of weed control.
Mulching
Mulching increases yields, conserves mois-
ture, prevents weed growth, regulates soil tem-
perature, and lessens crop loss caused by ground
rot. Organic mulches include straw, leaves, grass,
bark, compost, sawdust and peat moss. Organic
mulches incorporated into the soil will improve
the soil tilth, aeration and drainage. The amount
of organic mulch to use depends upon the type,
but 1 to 2 inches applied to the garden surface
around growing plants is adequate.
When you have finished harvesting and it
is time to turn under organic mulch for subse-
quent crops, add more fertilizer at the rate of
about 1 pound per 100 square feet to help soil
organisms break down the additional organic
matter.
5
Pest Control
Diseases and insects can cause problems
for Texas gardeners. Long growing seasons with
relatively mild winters encourage large insect
populations. Avoid spraying when possible, but
use recommended and approved chemicals if the
situation warrants. Be careful when deciding which
chemicals to apply. Spray only those crops listed on
the chemical’s container. When used according to
the manufacturer’s directions and label, chemicals
pose no threat to the home gardener.
Disease control is really a preventive rather
than an eradication procedure. Cool, damp con-
ditions are conducive to foliage diseases. Care-
fully watch your garden for symptoms of diseases.
If necessary, spray with approved fungicides.
Publications on disease and insect identification
and control are available from your county Ex-
tension office and at the Texas AgriLife Extension
Bookstore (http://agrilifebookstore.org).
Harvesting
Harvest time brings the reward of planting and
caring for your vegetable crops. For best flavor, har-
vest vegetables when they are mature. A vegetable’s
full flavor develops only at peak maturity, result-
ing in the excellent taste of vine-ripened tomatoes,
tender green beans and crisp, flavorful lettuce. For
maximum flavor and nutritional content, harvest
the crop the day it is to be canned, frozen or eaten.
Home Gardening Do’s and Don’ts
Do
1. Use recommended varieties for your
area of the state.
2. Sample soil and have it tested every 2 to
3 years.
3. Apply preplant fertilizer to the garden
in the recommended amount.
4. Examine your garden often to keep
ahead of potential problems.
5. Keep the garden free of insects, dis-
eases and weeds.
6. Use mulches to conserve moisture,
control weeds and reduce ground rots.
7. Water as needed, wetting soil to a depth
of 6 inches.
8. Thin when plants are small.
9. Avoid excessive walking and working
in the garden when the foliage and soil
are wet.
10. Wash your garden tools and sprayer
well after each use.
11. Keep records on garden activities.
Don’t
1. Depend on varieties not recommend-
ed for your area, but do try limited
amounts of new releases.
2. Plant so closely that you cannot walk or
work in the garden.
3. Cultivate so deeply that plant roots are
injured.
4. Shade small plants with taller growing
crops.
5. Water excessively or in late afternoon.
6. Place fertilizer directly in contact with
plant roots or seeds.
7. Allow weeds to grow large before culti-
vating.
8. Apply chemicals or pesticides in a hap-
hazard manner or without reading the
label directions.
9. Use chemicals not specifically recom-
mended for garden crops.
10. Store leftover diluted spray.
6
Table 6. Handy conversion table.
3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons = 1 fluid ounce
16 tablespoons = 1 cup
2 cups = 1 pint or 16 fluid ounces
2 pints = 1 quart
4 quarts = 1 gallon
1 ounce = approximately 2 tablespoons (dry weight)
Table 7. Common garden problems.
Symptom
Plants stunted in growth;
sickly, yellow color
Possible causes
Not enough soil nutrients or soil pH is abnormal
Corrective measure(s)
Use fertilizer and correct pH according to
a soil test. Use 2 to 3 pounds of complete
fertilizer per 100 square feet in the
absence of soil test.
Modify soil with organic matter or coarse
sand.
Use a regular spray or dust program.
Apply iron to soil or foliage.
Plant at the proper time. Don’t use light-
colored mulch too early in the season.
Apply sufficient phosphate at planting.
Use recommended insecticides at regular
intervals.
Use resistant varieties; remove diseased
plants and use a regular spray program.
Have soil tested. Use soil insecticides,
fungicides and resistant varieties.
Add organic matter or sand to the soil.
Use recommended varieties and apply soil
insecticides or nematicides.
Relocate to a sunny area. Keep down
weeds.
Reduce applications of nitrogen
Use mulch and water. Plant heat-tolerant
varieties.
Use fertilizer containing zinc, iron and
manganese.
Avoid spraying when bees are present.
Keep the soil moisture uniform. Avoid
overwatering and excessive nitrogen.
Plants growing in compacted, poorly drained
soil
Insect or disease damage
Iron deficiency
Plants stunted in growth; sickly, purplish
color
Holes in leaves; leaves yellowish and
dropping, or distorted in shape
Plant leaves with spots; dead, dried areas;
or powdery or rusty areas
Plants wilt even though they have
sufficient water
Low temperature
Low available phosphate
Insect damage
Plant disease
Soluble salts too high or root system damage
Poor drainage and aeration
Insect or nematode damage
Plants tall, spindly and unproductive
Excessive shade
Excessive nitrogen
Blossom drop (tomato)
Hot, dry periods
Minor element deficiencies
Failure to set fruit (vine crop)
Leathery, dry, brown blemish on the
blossom end of tomato, pepper and
watermelon
Poor pollination
Blossom end rot
7
Table 8. Vegetable planting.
Vegetables
Seed or
plants per
100 feet
1 oz seed
or 66 plants
½ lb seed
½ lb seed
½ lb seed
¼ lb seed
1 oz seed
¼ oz seed
¼ oz seed
¼ oz seed
¼ oz seed
½ oz seed
¼ oz seed
2 oz seed
¼ oz seed
3-4 oz seed
½ oz seed
1/8 oz seed
1 lb seed
¼ oz seed
¼ oz seed
½ oz seed
Depth of
planting
(in)
1-1½
or 6-8
1-1½
1-1½
1-1½
1-1½
1
½
½
½
½
½
½
1
½
½
½
½
½
½
½
1
Distance
between
rows (in)
36-48
30-36
36-48
30-36
36-48
14-24
24-36
24-36
24-36
18-30
14-24
24-36
18-30
18-36
24-36
48-72
30-26
14-24
14-24
18-24
60-96
Distance
between
plants (in)
18
3-4
4-6
3-4
12-18
2
14-24
14-24
14-24
7-12
2
14-24
6
6-12
9-12
8-12
18-24
2-4
4-6
2-3
24-36
Height of
crop (ft)
5
1½
6
1½
6
1½
3
2
1½
1½
1
3
1½
2
6
1
3
1
1½
1
1
Spring planting
relative to
frost-free date
4 to 6 weeks before
1 to 4 weeks after
1 to 4 weeks after
1 to 4 weeks after
1 to 4 weeks after
4 to 6 weeks before
4 to 6 weeks before
4 to 6 weeks before
4 to 6 weeks before
4 to 6 weeks before
4 to 6 weeks before
not recommended
2 to 6 weeks before
2 to 6 weeks before
1 to 6 weeks after
1 to 6 weeks after
2 to 6 weeks after
not recommended
2 to 6 weeks before
6 weeks before
or 2 weeks after
1 to 6 weeks after
Fall planting
relative to first
freeze date
not recommended
8 to 10 weeks
before
14 to 16 weeks
before
8 to 10 weeks
before
14 to 16 weeks
before
8 to 10 weeks
before
10 to 16 weeks
before
10 to 14 weeks
before
10 to 16 weeks
before
12 to 14 weeks
before
12 to 14 weeks
before
10 to 16 weeks
before
12 to 16 weeks
before
8 to 12 weeks
before
12 to 14 weeks
before
10 to 12 weeks
before
12 to 16 weeks
before
4 to 6 weeks before
12 to 16 weeks
before
10 to 14 weeks
before
14 to 16 weeks
before
Asparagus
Beans, snap bush
Beans, snap pole
Beans, Lima
bush
Beans, Lima pole
Beets
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cabbage,
Chinese
Carrot
Cauliflower
Chard, Swiss
Collard (Kale)
Corn, sweet
Cucumber
Eggplant
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Muskmelon
(Cantaloupe)
(continued on next page)
8
Table 8. Vegetable planting continued.
Vegetables
Seed or
plants per
100 feet
¼ oz seed
2 oz seed
No seed/
400-600
plants
1 oz seed
¼ oz seed
1 lb seed
½ lb seed
1/8 oz seed
6-10 lb seed
No seed/
75-100
plants
½ oz seed
1 oz seed
1 oz seed
1 oz seed
½ oz seed
1/8 oz seed
or 50 plants
½ oz seed
½ oz seed
1 oz seed
Depth of
planting
(in)
½
1
½
Distance
between
rows (in)
14-24
36-42
14-24
Distance
between
plants (in)
6-12
12-24
2-3
Height of
crop (ft)
1½
6
1½
Spring planting
relative to
frost-free date
1 to 6 weeks after
2 to 6 weeks after
4 to 10 weeks before
Fall planting
relative to first
freeze date
10 to 16 weeks
before
12 to 16 weeks
before
not recommended
Mustard
Okra
Onion (plants)
Onion (seed)
Parsley
Peas, English
Peas, Southern
Pepper
Potato, Irish
Potato, sweet
½
1/8
2-3
2-3
½
4
3-5
14-24
14-24
18-36
24-36
30-36
30-36
36-48
2-3
2-4
1
4-6
18-24
10-15
12-16
1½
½
2
2½
3
2
1
6 to 8 weeks before
1 to 6 weeks before
2 to 8 weeks before
2 to 10 weeks after
1 to 8 weeks after
4 to 6 weeks before
2 to 8 weeks after
8 to 10 weeks
before
6 to 16 weeks
before
2 to 12 weeks
before
10-12 weeks before
12 to 16 weeks
before
14 to 16 weeks
before
not recommended
Pumpkin
Radish
Spinach
Squash, summer
Squash, winter
Tomato
Turnip, greens
Turnip, roots
Watermelon
½
½
½
½
½
½ or 4-6
½
½
½
60-96
14-24
14-24
36-60
60-96
36-48
14-24
14-24
72-96
36-48
1
3-4
18-36
24-48
36-48
2-3
2-3
36-72
1
½
1
3
1
3
1½
1½
1
1 to 4 weeks after
6 weeks before/
4 weeks after
1 to 8 weeks before
1 to 4 weeks after
1 to 4 weeks after
1 to 8 weeks after
2 to 6 weeks before
2 to 6 weeks before
1 to 6 weeks after
12 to 14 weeks
before
1 to 8 weeks before
2 to 16 weeks
before
12 to 15 weeks
before
12 to 14 weeks
before
12 to 14 weeks
before
2 to 12 weeks
before
2 to 12 weeks
before
14 to 16 weeks
before
9
Table 9. Vegetable harvest and yield.
Vegetable
Asparagus
Beans, snap—bush
Beans, snap—pole
Beans, Lima—bush
Beans, Lima—pole
Beet
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cabbage, Chinese
Carrot
Cauliflower
Chard, Swiss
Collard (Kale)
Corn, sweet
Cucumber
Eggplant
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Muskmelon/
Cantaloupe
Mustard
Okra
Onion (bulb)
Onion (seed)
Parsley
Pea, English
Pea, Southern
Pepper
Potato, Irish
Potato, sweet
Pumpkin
Radish
Spinach
Days to
harvest
730
45-60
60-70
65-80
75-85
50-60
60-80
90-100
60-90
65-70
70-80
70-90
45-55
50-80
70-90
50-70
80-90
140-150
55-75
40-80
85-100
30-40
55-65
80-120
90-120
70-90
55-90
60-70
60-90
75-100
100-130
75-100
25-40
40-60
Length
of harvest
60
14
30
14
40
30
40
21
40
21
21
14
40
60
10
30
90
N/A
14
21
30
30
90
N/A
N/A
90
7
30
90
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
40
Yield/100 ft
30 lb
120 lb
150 lb
25 lb shelled
50 lb shelled
150 lb
100 lb
75 lb
150 lb
80 heads
100 lb
100 lb
75 lb
100 lb
10 dozen
120 lb
100 lb
40 lb
75 lb
50 lb
100 fruits
100 lb
100 lb
100 lb
100 lb
30 lb
20 lb
40 lb
60 lb
100 lb
100 lb
100 lb
100 bunches
3 bushels
Approximate planting/person
Fresh
Canned/frozen
10-15 plants
15-16 ft
5-6 ft
10-15 ft
5-6 ft
5-10 ft
3-5 plants
2-5 plants
3-4 plants
3-10 ft
5-10 ft
3-5 plants
3-5 plants
5-10 ft
10-15 ft
1-2 hills
2-3 plants
N/A
3-5 ft
5-15 ft
3-5 hills
5-10 ft
4-6 ft
3-5 ft
3-5 ft
1-3 ft
15-20 ft
10-15 ft
3-5 plants
50-100 ft
5-10 plants
1-2 hills
3-5 ft
5-10 ft
10-15 plants
15-20 ft
8-10 ft
15-20 ft
8-10 ft
10-20 ft
5-6 plants
5-8 plants
5-10 plants
N/A
10-15 ft
8-12 plants
8-12 plants
5-10 ft
30-50 ft
3-5 hills
2-3 plants
1-5 ft
5-10 ft
N/A
N/A
10-15 ft
6-10 ft
30-50 ft
30-50 ft
1-3 ft
40-60 ft
20-50 ft
3-5 plants
N/A
10-20 plants
1-2 hills
N/A
10-15 ft
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10
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